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“They truly have elegance and style…I think that the wines coming out of here are smarter than anywhere else,” says Matthew Jukes, who hosted a Chardonnay and Pinot Noir masterclass ahead of the tasting. The nine Chardonnays selected for the masterclass were a mixed bag, and all the better for it, demonstrating a definite sense of terroir – no winery here is more than five miles from the ocean – the wide range of soil-types but also the impact of the winemakers, most of whom follow low intervention winemaking.

Amongst the Chardonnays, the Kooyong 2016 Single Vineyard Farrago was impressive, showing elegance and good acidity with only a light touch of oak, allowing the fruit to show through nicely.

Winemaker Kate Mc Intyre says 2012 was a “classic vintage…the aim here was balance and I think this wine shows this perfectly.” The Pinots were equally impressive.

All nine were from 2016, a solid year which allowed the fruit to show through.

Things remain small-scale, if not boutique; typical volume is between 100,000-300,000 bottles and judging by the cameraderie I saw, winemakers here are as keen to promote the reputation of the region as much as their own wines.

we’ve tried to show this,” says Mike Aylward, winemaker at Ocean Eight.

With no tartness, good complexity and lots of pure fruit coming through these wines wear their cool climate tag well.

Mount Martha is a seaside town in Melbourne, Victoria, Australia 60 kilometres (37 mi) south-east of Melbourne's central business district.

Small volume and very high land prices have seen to that.

With the latter continuing to rise, and the Brexit-battered pound barely holding its own against an Aussie dollar buoyed by over 20 years of unbroken economic growth, you aren’t going to see bargains coming from this region any time soon.

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